We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn More ›
It’s no secret that forward-facing sonar (FFS) is an incredibly effective tool for catching crappie. The best crappie lures and crappie rods are also not a secret. But, the FFS settings to clearly see a school in 50 to 5 feet of water, how to adjust your fish finder to pick out crappie holding tight to a brush pile, and how to avoid spooking a school with sonar pings remain a mystery for many anglers.
If you’re having a hard time learning how to use your FFS, here are my best tips on dialing in your electronics and finding giant slabs.
Topics Covered
- FFS Mounting
- Gain Settings
- How to Avoid Spooking a School of Crappie
- Finding Crappie in Open Water
- How to Get a Clear Picture with FFS
- Using Perspective Mode to Find Shallow Crappie
FFS Mounting Options
Transducer mounting options include trolling motor mounts, turrets, and manual pole mounts. They all work very well depending on the type of boat you have where you want the transducer located.
A trolling motor shaft or barrel mount allows anglers to quickly cover water by scanning back and forth. With a shaft mount, I can efficiently eliminate unproductive areas and locate active schools. I also use this mount in forward mode to scan boat docks of all sizes and brush piles. One top tip for seeing suspended schools of crappie lurking under the walkways or in boat slips is to adjust the forward range out to 100 feet.
Pole mounts are a good option for anglers that may not have a trolling motor — like kayak anglers. Or someone who prefers to put spot lock on or anchor up over a piece of structure. You can also rig up a portable forward-facing sonar with a pole mount if you don’t want a finder permanently mounted on your boat.
A turret mount will allow the angler to sweep back and forth, much like a trolling motor mount. However, being independent of the trolling motor it means it’s easier to keep crappie in the beam while your trolling motor keeps you in position.
Read Next: Best Fish Finders
Choosing a Screen and Gain Settings
All of the head units that are FFS compatible will get the job done. But bigger screens with higher pixel counts will deliver the best quality and detail possible, and they are also the easiest to interpret. Of course, with those big screens comes a higher price tag.
When setting up your fish finder, keep your gain set around 65 percent and your color gain (if available) around 95 to 100 percent. Those settings make structure and fish easy to identify and maximizes target separation.
These settings help me see fish and have enough time to make a cast before I get too close and spook the fish. I also prefer my depth range set manually at 5 to 10 feet deeper than my target depth. That depth range reduces condensing and better represents the size of the fish I’m seeing on the screen.
Stealth Is Key
Once you find a school of crappie or structure, stay as far away as possible. I prefer a distance just close enough to cast or skip 5 to 10 feet past the target rather than directly on top of it — this helps reduce noise and increases bites.
Do not, and I mean do not, leave the FFS pointed directly at the fish at all times. They become weary and will not bite because crappie, and other fish, can feel the constant ping of the sonar transmission.
Stopping the transmission or ping will result in more catches. This is easily done by accessing the menu or putting the unit in sleep mode. At the very least, point the FFS in the opposite direction once the depth and cast angle are determined.
Read Next: Best Spot Lock Trolling Motors
Finding Crappie in Open Water
Finding some structure in a fishery is always a great starting point and, in most cases, will yield success. The depth of the structure you should target will vary depending on the time of year, water color, and fishery.
For me, the biggest surprise that FFS revealed was how many crappie roam in open water. Yep, that’s correct, they are commonly found around seemingly nothing. Sometimes with not even the slightest hint of bait fish in the area. This revelation is completely contrary to prior belief that crappie relate to structure or follow schools of bait in the open.
That revelation led me to keep my FFS range to approximately 120 feet and gain up to 65 to 70 percent. I’ll use that setting while scan in creeks, necks, and pockets. You don’t need to go slow while checking out open water. What you’re seeing on the screen is in real time so you can motor along until you see something worth casting at.
How to Get a Clear Picture with FFS
A few settings that will help clean things up on your FFS.
- Noise Rejection: I prefer a low to medium setting because a setting that’s too high will mask objects and even fish. If your setting is too low, your screen will be cluttered with static and ghosting images.
- Color Palettes: Experiment with your unit’s palettes because everyone has a different perception, and you’ll find one that works best for you. The color gain setting is important if you like watching your bait, especially small crappie jigs. I like to keep this setting high and mine normally stays at 100 percent.
- I’ve learned it’s best to completely turn your FFS off at the power source around three to four times per day. This reboots the unit and resets it to the current conditions, which results in a better picture. That improved clarity will help locate crappie holding tight to structure.
Using Perspective Mode to Find Shallow Crappie
Perspective mode allows you to search with a wide, flat view instead of the narrow beam that’s used in forward mode. It basically takes the forward picture and turns it sideways for a wide look ahead. This mode is perfect for finding crappie using shallow cover — typically in 10 feet or less in depth.
You’ll have to adjust your settings from forward mode to maximize perspective mode. I like to use a soft palate like aqua. This color will eliminate interference from hard bottom areas and soften the return from shallow structures such as brush piles, stumps, and tree tops.
I also turn the gain and color gain settings down and adjust the forward range to 30 to 50 feet. Perspective looks different from forward and takes some time to master. However, it is very effective and works much better than forward mode when chasing a shallow water bite.
When swapping between forward and perspective modes you’ll use the same transducer and all the mounting equipment needed is usually included with the unit. Most manufacturers have mounts that quickly change from forward to perspective mode on the water with little effort or time lost fishing.
Final Thoughts
Forward-facing sonar has increased my understanding of crappie movement and their reaction to the bait size and color. Most importantly, using FFS shows me when it’s time to adjust and when it’s time to move on.
The best FFS equipment on the market isn’t worth a penny if you don’t understand what it’s capable of and how to read the information it provides. Use the tips and settings I’ve laid out as a starting point, and don’t be afraid to adjust them to suit your specific needs. Keep that FFS won’t catch crappie for you, it’s simply a tool to help anglers locate fish, structure, and baitfish.
About the Author
Morgenthaler is a retired B.A.S.S. Elite Series Pro, a fishing guide on Table Rock Lake, and teaches people how to use their electronics. Over the last several years he’s also been dialing in my FFS setups for crappie with great success.